Looking for Mr. Goodbar: A Tutorial for Soap Shoppers (page 2)

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A Bunch of Lies

Some much-needed transparency on clear glycerin soaps. 

There are many misconceptions about soap. Here's one more. People often assume that transparent, so-called "glycerin soaps" are inherently more pure than other soaps because they're clear. Or that they're somehow (like the photo, above) 100% glycerin. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, if you read the ingredient list, you'll find that some of these soaps actually contain very little glycerin.

Clear soaps are made just like any other soap (lye + water + fats or oils) or, alternately, with synthetic detergents.  The only difference is that sugars and alcohols are added during the soapmaking process, which (through the magic of chemistry) turns the soap clear. Beyond this, there's no real difference between clear and opaque soaps. A clear bar of soap can be just as moisturizing or just as noxious as an opaque bar. As with any soap, it depends upon what ingredients are (or are not) used.

In its most natural, un-doctored form, a transparent soap will be an amber-colored bar, through which a size 14 font text can be read. Most clear soaps on the market are the arts & crafts type soaps, however, which are sold in one of two forms: melt-and-pour craft-store soaps, or as fancifully colored soap slices (usually made from melt-and-pour soaps), decorated to look like everything from cherry pie to watermelon to malachite.

Careful, careful when reading the ingredient lists on these soaps, as they are nearly always deceptive. This deception is likely unintentional in most cases, due to nothing more than a mix of naive ignorance combined and an over-reliance on the honesty of sellers further up the supply chain. It's a well-known secret that soap labeling laws are so loose as to be frivolous. As such, it's not unusual to find "glycerin" soaps with no ingredient lists at all, or with a partial list. Often, the ingredients are listed in incorrect order. That is, the ingredients are not listed in the order of concentration -- from highest to lowest -- but are often listed in order of the most desirable ingredients, with glycerin heading the list.

Here's an example of a partial ingredient list from a soap-by-the-slice bar: Glycerin, Primrose Oil , Shea Butter, Vitamins, Sweet Almond Oil. Were this list true, you'd have a handful of slippery glop about the consistency of melted jello with blobs of yellowish fat floating in it and a slick of oil floating on top.
Another soap-by-the slice offers a similar ingredient list, only the first ingredient is "glycerin soap." While this is a tad more accurate, it doesn't give a clue as to what heck it's made of. What's in that "glycerin soap"? Could be a chemical cocktail, like the ingredients in this common craft store melt-and-pour soap:

INGREDIENTS: propylene glycol, sorbitol, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium stearate, sodium palmitate, triethanolamine, glycerin, sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Beyond the preponderance of syllables, the first thing wrong with this list (if the ingredient order is to be believed) is that glycerin is so far down the list as to be little more than a trace ingredient. The soap's primary emollient -- the stuff that give these soaps that characteristic, slippery feel people associate with glycerin soaps -- is not glycerin at all, but the petro-based propylene glycol.

The second thing wrong with the list are the ingredients, themselves. How ironic that this melt-and-pour soap bills itself as an "all natural, hypo-allergenic, 100% pure glycerin soap."  I could go through that list, ingredient by ingredient, and tell you what that soap is really made of, starting with allergens. Or you could do the research yourself, wading through the scientific literature on these ingredients, which is littered with words like itching, burning, hives, eczema, blistering, skin irritant, eye irritant, allergen, asthma, neuro-toxin, immune system toxicant, kidney and renal system tumors, environmental toxin, developmental and reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruptor and suspected carcinogens. Which brings me back to that 221 year-old recipe for Pears Transparent Soap.

Pears has been owned for 100 years, and counting, by Unilever, the same company that own Dove. At some point in time (no one knows just when it happened) Unilever, in a stroke of genius, thought that they could do for Pears what they did for Dove: make a cheap product that would clean your bathtub and your face in one fell swoop.


To do this, they threw out 5 of the original 8 ingredients and replaced them with 20 brand new ingredients. They didn't do this all at once, but gradually, over time. Perhaps Unilever thought that -- if they changed the recipe slowly, just a few ingredients at a time -- no one would notice. They were wrong. It's difficult to say which ingredient(s) served as the tipping point with public favor, prompting such a huge outcry. Was it the chemical perfumes? The chemical dyes? The chemicals to promote lather? The chemicals to leave your skin feeling squeaky-clean? The chemicals to clean your tub while you wash your face? Or was it the chemical to keep the other chemicals from going bad?

All we know is that Unilever took this simple, well-loved 221-year old, all-vegetable recipe and turned it into something that one user described as, "a soap that smells like an unholy trinity of Vicks VapoRub, insecticide, and cancer."

Sorbitol, Aqua, Sodium Palmate/Stearate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Rosinate, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG-4, Alcohol, Glycerin, Perfume, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Meta Bisulfite, Etidronic Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Cl 12490, Cl 47005, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Cinnamol, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool.

Perhaps this is also what happened to Dove. While it has always been made with synthetic detergents, maybe, once upon a time, it was a gentle product or real integrity. I suspect it was, even as I don't have the ingredient lists from the earlier bars to confirm this. But I do know that, over and over, I'm hearing people complain that Dove burns, stings and dries out their skin. But do these people stop using it? Often not. This is because their dermatologist, pediatrician or oncologist (doctors who are, perhaps, better acquainted with the old formula Dove) recommended it to them. And if a doctor recommends something, it must be good. So they figure there must something wrong with their skin, to react like this; or they figure that, maybe if they keep trying, it will eventually stop burning and drying out their skin.

And the sad truth is, it very well may. This is because the body can actually grow accustomed to irritants, reacting less strongly with each successive exposure. The only way to know if this is the case is to stop using it, and switch to a mild soap of good integrity. Then switch back after a month or so, and see what your skin has to say. If your skin says, "Ewww," listen to it and stop using the stuff.

The Best Soaps Under the Sun

Where to find them? Grocery stores, big box stores, health food & fitness stores and online. Check out my list, below, for some recommended brands.

I've not listed any outrageously expensive products -- only those whose prices are an honest reflection of the integrity ingredients. Some may be better bargains than others, but none are rip-offs.  When comparing prices, be sure to factor sizes. Bar soap sizes range from 3.5 oz. to a whopping 5.25 oz. The average prices on my list range from $1 to $2 per ounce, with Dr. Bronner's Organic Castille Soaps the best value at 60 to 80-cents per ounce. Compare this to, say, Dove & Dial, which average 25 to 40-cents per ounce.

Lastly, I'll let you in on a little-known secret: Castile bar soaps and other mild vegetable soaps make excellent shampoos. They gently cleanse the hair and scalp, and are safe for thinning and color-treated hair. Unless you have extremely oily hair, you'll want to use soaps with added nourishing oils, such as jojoba and hemp, which are some of the best hair conditioners under the sun. Give it a try for a week or so, and see if you like it.  I did and couldn't be more pleased. 

Now that you've slogged through this post, you know the basics for spotting a good bar. These same basics apply to liquid & gel soaps, as well. Here are 5 rules of thumb to remember when soap shopping:

• Disregard most of what you see on the front label. Go straight for the ingredient list.
• The more closely that list resembles a recipe that could have been written between the 22nd century BC and the mid-20th century AD, the more likely you are holding an integrity product in your hands.
• Given a choice, pick fats and oils that expeller-pressed, cold-pressed, virgin and/or USDA certified organic. These are more pure and less likely to have trace contaminants that can irritate the skin.
• If you're prone to dry skin, look for soaps that contain a blend of moisturizers (humectants + emollients).
• When buying scented products, choose essential oils, rather than ingredients called fragrance, parfum, or natural scents, which are made of unknown ingredients and are more likely to contain skin irritants & toxins.

Time to Go Soap Shopping

Below is an alphabetized list of good bars & liquid/gels to get started. My favorites ♥ are duly noted. All of the products below are cruelty-free and, with one exception (EO Bar Soap) vegan. All are made in the USA, with the exception of Kiss My Face, which is made in Greece. While I've featured mostly unscented/fragrance-free options, nearly all have scented versions available, as described below.

KEY FEATURES:

• Certified Organic
• Soap
• Syndet
• Limited availability online/select stores (check individual websites for availability near you)
• Wide availability online/national chains

BAR SOAPS

Belle's Botanicals Aromatherapy Soaps (scented bars only) Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for 4.5 oz. bar is $4

INGREDIENTS: Each scented soap has different ingredients, all starting with a base of Saponified Coconut, Olive, Palm, Soy Sweet Almond & Jojoba Oils. Check their website for full ingredients lists on each scent.

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Cinnamon Candy Herbal, Desert Rose, Dream, Ginger Jubilee, Lavender Herbal, Lavender Oakmoss Herbal, Lavender Rosemary Herbal, Morning Mint Herbal, Lemongrass, Licorice, Love Blend, Monster Mash, Moontime, Patchouli, Reflection, Sagegrass Herbal, Spanish Sage Herbal, Spice, Summertime, Sweet Orange.

♥Dr. Bronner's Baby Mild Castile Bar Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free) USDA Certified Organic/National Organic Program Soap Wide availability online/national chains (A personal favorite of mine for several reasons: it's the best buy, it's ultra-gentle & moisturings, it's widely available, and its natural scent takes me back 50 years, to whatever it was my mother bathed me in when I was very young). 

PRICE: Average price for a 5-oz. bar is $3 to $5

INGREDIENTS: Organic Coconut Oil*, Organic Palm Oil*, Sodium Hydroxide**, Water, Organic Olive Oil*, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Salt, Citric Acid, Tocopherol * Certified Fair Trade Ingredients / ** None remains after saponifying oils into soap and glycerin

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Almond, Rose, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Citrus, Lavender, Tea Tree

Emily Skin Soothing Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for 4-oz. bar is $6

INGREDIENTS: shea butter, saponified olive, avocado, palm and coconut oils, Angelica Sinensis herb, Potentillae Chinensis herb, and Mentha Haplocalyx Herb (mint).

EO Sensitive Skin Bar Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for a 4-oz. bar is $5

INGREDIENTS: Saponified Oils of Organic sunflower, Organic Palm, and Organic Coconut (With Retained Glycerin), Oats, Honey, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Rosemary Extract 

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: Deodorant Soap (with lemon, verbena & menthol), Everyday Soap (with lavender & aloe), Exfoliating Soap (with peppermint & juniper berries), Nourishing Bar Soap (with rose, chamomile & shea butter)

Juniper Ridge Soaps ~ Wild West Goods (scented bars only) This soap is made entirely from organic and wild-harvested ingredients, but is not a USDA certified organic product. Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Average price $6 per bar (size unknown).

INGREDIENTS: sustainably wildcrafted plant and tree trimmings from the mountains and deserts of the West, organic palm oil, organic extra virgin olive oil, organic coconut oil, organic golden jojoba

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Coastal Sage, California Bay Laurel, Sierra Cedar, Desert Piñon, Siskiyou Cedar, Western Juniper, White Sage

Kiss My Face Pure Olive Oil Bar (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Soap Wide availability online/national chains

PRICE: Average price for a 4-oz. bar is $3 to $4

INGREDIENTS: Saponified Olive Oil, Water, Sodium Chloride

AVAILABLE SCENTS: All of the other bars by this company contain fragrance, which may be synthetic, so I've not listed these. And because their liquid soaps contain undesirable ingredients, I've not listed these either.

Mountain Girl Botanics "Bear" Bottom Bar Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free)  This soap is made entirely from organic and wild-harvested ingredients, but is not a USDA certified organic product..Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for 5.25-oz. bar is $10

INGREDIENTS: Saponified oils of Olea europaea (Olive, organic), Cocos nucifera (Coconut, organic), Persea gratissima (Avocado, organic), Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter, organic), Orbignya oleifera (Babassu, wildcraft), Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba, organic) oil, Theobroma cacao seed (Cocoa butter, organic), Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose, organic) oil; extracts of Calendula officinalis (Calendula, organic) flower, Matricaria chamomilla (Chamomile, organic) flower, Lavandula officinalis (Lavender, organic) flower]; Rosemarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract.

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: Apex Almond, Colorodo Kind Suds Hair & Body Bar, Boulder Blossom Bar, Calm Skies, Dry Gulch, Eldo Kind, Lavender Meadow, Red Rocks, Sylvan Kitchen Bar, Ute Springs Renewal, Western Slope Citrus Sugar

Oregon Soap Company Aloe & Calendula Baby Bar  (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Oregon Tilth Certified Organic to USDA Organic standards Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for a 3.5-oz. bar is $7

INGREDIENTS: Saponified Palm, Coconut and Olive Oil, Aloe Vera, Calendula

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: Anise, Cinnamon & Aloe, Extra-Strength Peppermint, Caribbean Bay Rum, Forest, French Clay & Geranium, Lavender & Comfrey, Lavender & Oatmeal, Mama Mia's Eczema Relief, Mandarin Spice, Patcholi, Soapman's Spice, Tangerine Dream, Tangermint, Tea Tree & Calendula, Zesty Lemongrass and last, but not least, Truly Unscented, which is a basic castille soap with nothing added.

Purple Prairie Sweet Cheeks Baby Bar (Unscented/Fragrance-free) This soap contains mostly organic ingredients, but is not a USDA certified organic product..Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for a 4-oz. bar is $4

INGREDIENTS: Saponified organic olive oil, saponified organic palm oil, saponified organic Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil , saponified organic shea butter, benzoin extract, rosemary extract

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: April's Garden, Anise, Balsam Fir, Eucalyptus-Lemon, Frankincense & Myrrh, Ginger-Clove, Gardener's Carrot, Lavender, Lemongrass-Oatmeal, Minnesota Mint, Owen's Oatmeal, Orange Tea Tree, Probiotic, Peppermint Oatmeal, Peaceful Prairie, Patchouli Rose, Patchouli Vanilla, Tea Tree, Sandlewood & Sage, Cedarwood & Tea Tree, Rosemary Mint

Tilvee Body Bar & Facial Soaps (scented bars only) Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price range for 3.75-oz. body bars is $6 to $7. Price for 3.75-oz. facial bars is $10.

INGREDIENTS: A quality line of soaps, each with different ingredients. Check their website for more info.

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: Pomegranate, Essential Fatty Acid, Mandarin Mellow Body Bars; plus Tea Tree, Shea Butter and Anti-Oxidant Facial Bars.

Tom's of Maine Moisturing Body Bar (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Soap Wide availability online/national chains

PRICE: Average price for a 4-oz. bar is $3.25

INGREDIENTS: Soaps of coconut & palm, glycerin, tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E), jojoba oil, olive oil, rosemary extract, ascorbyl palmitate (Vitamin C & palm oil), chamomile oil

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY BARS: (NOTE: Be sure to check the ingredients before purchasing, as they vary greatly from bar to bar, and I wouldn't necessarily recommend all of them). Moisturing Body Bars: Calendula, Lavender; Natural Beauty Bars: Sensitive, Daily Moisture, Deodorant, Relaxing, Exfoliating, Energizing; Natural Deodorant Bars: Lemongrass, Unscented.

LIQUIDS & GELS

California Baby Super-Sensitive Shampoo & Baby Wash (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Syndet Wide availability online/national chains

PRICE: Average price for 8.5 oz. bottle is $9 to $12

INGREDIENTS: Aqua (Purified Water), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera), Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside (Corn, Coconut And Palm), Quillaja Saponaria (Soap Bark), Herbal Blend Of: Cereus Grandiforus Extract, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), Carrageenan (Irish Moss), Viola Tricolor Extract (Pansy), Salix Alba (Willow Bark), Yucca Aloifolia Extract (Yucca), Vegetable Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil), Tocopherol (Vit. E), Panthenol (Vit. B-5), Citrus Grandis Seed Extract (Grapefruit), Polyaminopropyl Biguanide.

AVAILABLE SCENTS & SPECIALTY FORMULAS: Calendula, Calming, Tea Tree & Lavender, Swimmer's Defense

Dr. Bronner's Baby Mild Castile Liquid Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free) USDA Certified Organic/National Organic Program Soap Wide availability online/national chains

PRICE: Average Price for an 8-oz. bottle is $6.

INGREDIENTS: Water, Organic Coconut Oil*, Potassium Hydroxide**, Organic Olive Oil*, Organic Hemp Oil, Organic Jojoba Oil, Citric Acid, Tocopherol * Certified Fair Trade Ingredients / ** None remains after saponifying oils into soap and glycerin

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Almond, Rose, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Citrus, Lavender, Tea Tree

EO Foaming Hand & Body Wash (scented formulas only) Syndet Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for an 8.5-oz. bottle is $9

INGREDIENTS: This body wash is available in four different scents, each with a base formula of: Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Coco-Sulfate PLUS various essential oils & extracts PLUS Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate (check the website for actual ingredient lists on each product)

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Coconut-Vanilla-Tangerine, Lavender-Aloe, Grapefruit-Mint, Chocolate-Mint

Mountain Rose Liquid Castile Soap (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Oregon Tilth Certified Organic to USDA Organic standards Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for an 8-oz. bottle is $5.25.

INGREDIENTS: Water, Saponified Organic Coconut, Sunflower and Castor oils, Citric Acid, and Rosemary extract.

AVAILABLE SCENTS: Lemon Face Wash, Rose Face Wash (NOTE: The face washes are different formulas than the body wash, as they're made with castile soap + aloe vera, jojoba oil, flower waters & extracts. As such, they cost a bit more at $10 to $11 for an 8-oz bottle).

Nurture My Body Baby Wash (Unscented/Fragrance-free) his syndet is made with organic and wild-harvested ingredients, but is not a USDA certified organic product.Syndet Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: 8.5-oz. bottle for $21

INGREDIENTS: Purified Water, Decyl Polyglucose, Lauryl Polyglucose, Cocos Nucifera (Coco de Cream)**, Chondrus Crispus (Seaweed) Extract**, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium Flowers) Infusion***, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium Leaf) Infusion***, Lavandula Officinalis (Lavender Flowers) Infusion**, Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey Root) Infusion**, Fragaria (Strawberry Leaf) Infusion**, Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) Infusion**, Avena Sativa (Oatstraw) Infusion**, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile Flowers) Infusion**, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) CO2**, Calendula Officinalis (Pot Marigold) CO2**, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Extract

*Organic **Certified Organic ***Wildcrafted ****Biodynamic/Demeter Certified

AVAILABLE SCENTS: This company also offers a scented version of the above baby wash, scented with essential oils of lavender & rose geranium. They also offer an additional line of washes available in the following scents: Fragrance-free, Citrus, Floral, Ginger, Herbal. They also offer a fragrance-free bar soap for sensitive skin.

Oregon Soap Company Aloe Baby Wash Foamer Oregon Tilth Certified Organic to USDA Organic standards Soap Limited availability online/select stores

PRICE: Price for an 8.3-oz. bottle is $7.

INGREDIENTS: Saponified Organic Coconut, Organic Sunflower and/or safflower, and Organic Castor Oil, Essential Oils, Citric Acid (pH balancer), rosemary Extract (antioxidant).

OTHER AVAILABLE SCENTS: Caribbean Bay Rum, Citrus Sunshine, Clary Sage & Fir, Ginger-Grapefruit, Lavender & Geranium, Lemongrass Zinger, Oregon Double Mint, Pacific Northwest Lavender, Patchouli Love, Tea Tree & Lavender

♥Terressentials Organic Gentle Bath Gel (Unscented/Fragrance-free) USDA Certified Organic Soap Limited availability online/select stores (A personal favorite of mine for two reasons: This may very well be the best quality soap on the planet, plus I love this company. Visit their website and you will too. Their database of knowledge is huge; they're completely transparent about their ingredients; they're conscientious about the integrity of their products; they're honest to a fault. The generous sprinkling of art and wit doesn't hurt either. Worth every penny.)

PRICE: Average price for an 8 oz. bottle is $10 to $12

INGREDIENTS: Organic aloe vera juice°, organic olive oil° castile soap, cold-pressed organic jojoba oil°, extracts of organic curcuma longa°, organic calendula°, organic althea (marshmallow)° and organic alchemilla (lady's mantle)°. °Certified Organic by the State of Maryland to the USDA-NOP standards.

SCENTED VERSIONS ALSO AVAILABLE: Lavender Garden, Cool Mint, Left Coast Lemon, Sultry Spice

Tom's of Maine Moisturing Body Wash (Unscented/Fragrance-free) Soap Wide availability online/national chains

PRICE: Average price for an 11-oz.  bottle is $6 to $7

INGREDIENTS: Water, Soap of Coconut Oil, Soap of Palm, Palm Kernel Oil, Glycerin, Coco Glucoside, Sodium Chloride, Sucrose Cocoate, Wheat (Triticum Vulgare), Potassium Phytate, Roman Chamomile Oil (Anthemis Nobilis)

OTHER AVAILABLE SCENTS: Lavender